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The Beginnings Of Jewelry

Jewelery is as old as human history, dating back to cave dwellings in South Africa some 100,000 years ago in the form of shells strung around the neck. Original human jewelry also consisted of teeth, carved stones, wood, and bone. Function follows form as this type of jewelry was most likely used to fasten loose clothing to the body and evolved into a type of aesthetic adornment. For most of jewelry’s history, the wearer displayed status and wealth by adorning the body with jewelry. Cro-Magnon man began making jewelry when the migration to Europe from the Middle East occurred 40,000 years ago. Metallurgy, the use of metals to make jewelry, appeared 7,000 years ago in the form of copper ornaments.

The ancient Egyptians along the Nile Delta began using gold for thousands of years, dating back 5,000 years. Jewelry was a symbol of authority and religious superiority for many kings, queens and emperors. Egyptian men and women began to carry scarab beetles as sacred objects and protection from evil spirits. Scarab beetles represented rebirth, from the behavior of the dung beetle that rolled its dung and incubated its young in this ball of dung. Egyptians used jewelry to adorn dead bodies, which helped the dead travel to the afterlife, offering comfort and protection. Many tomb raiders recycled jewelry by looting tomb jewels and adorning new kings. Pharaoh Tuntankhamen (King Tut) goes down in history as the most famous bejeweled king, although his 9-year reign from 1336-1327 BC was fairly insignificant and his tomb was most likely forgotten when the Egyptians cleared the cemetery of other kings. The Egyptians gave symbolic meaning to the color of precious stones. Green glass or gemstones were symbols of fertility and were used to ensure the abundance of new crops. In the Book of the Dead it is written that the God Isis should be represented by a red stone or glass, worn as a figurative ornament on a necklace to provide Isis with blood. The Egyptians imported silver and lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, which was used in many forms of jewelry. Queen Cleopatra was in love with the emeralds that were mined in the Red Sea area.

In the ancient city of Ur, located in southern Mesopotamia between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, jewelry became an important product for artisans and trade. The people of Ur created amulets, necklaces, anklets, and cylinder seals made of fine gold leaf and set with brilliantly colored agate, carnelian, lapis lazuli, and jasper stones. This jewelry was very popular and both men and women adorned themselves elaborately. Gemstone carving or glyphic art became popular as children and women wore rings with beautifully carved stones. Mesopotamian jewelers invented some of the techniques still used in jewelry making and metalworking today, such as granulation, filigree, cloisonne, and engraving. Motifs and patterns depicted on Mesopotamian jewelry included cones, spirals, grapes, and leaves. The jewelery of the time was worn by people and also used to adorn idols and statues with reverence.

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