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How to Make Brawn Like My Mother Used To

My father had a butcher shop in a small village and as a little girl I watched my mother build muscles. She would cook beef for hours in a large pot on the old wood stove. When it was soft enough that the bones were clean enough, she took the tender mass of meat and mushrooms, chopped them up, and mixed them with the clear liquid left in the pot. This magically became a hard jelly in the fridge.

As a new mom, I watched her prepare for church shopping while trying to keep my two active youngsters out of trouble. Now, many years after her death, I cook just for myself and try to imitate the taste of the log she used to make, because the exact recipe was never written down. Even now it is not as few people still achieve it.

Brawn is so quick and easy to make in a pressure cooker and I’ve found it to be a really nice standby to have at home.

You will need:

• 1 kg well-cleaned ox trotter. (I buy it frozen at the supermarket butcher shop
• Enough water to cover the trotters in a pressure cooker
• Salt and pepper
• 1 – 2 spoons of vinegar for every liter of water

I remember my mom’s face was a little sour and I read that vinegar pulls calcium out of the bones. Ma was born in 1903 and her mother 25 years earlier. Now where did housewives in the 19th century learn about this?

Method:

• Cook the bean in the pressure cooker for about 11/2 – 2 hours
• Refrigerate with the lid closed until the contents are cool enough to handle
• Drain and remove the bones
• Cut off the very soft solids and put back into the thick relish
• and add more salt if required Pour into the container of your choice.
• Mine is refrigerated in an oblong Pyrex container covered in foil.

When set, there is a thin layer of soft fat on top that can be easily removed before serving. It does not freeze well.

The spices can vary and nowadays I add a pickled onion with a clove, a few peppercorns, some herbs like thyme and a sprig of rosemary for a subtle extra flavor. I only use ox trotters and not beef, as my mother used to do when she made dough for the church bazaars. I prefer the clear jelly and soft textured scraps that came off the bones like she used to in my early childhood.

Sometimes, the meat, which also contains roasted meat, is placed in patty forms and thinly sliced ​​for serving. Others may prefer to add squares of sliced ​​bacon or other cold cuts, chopped boiled eggs with finely chopped parsley, small cubes of colorful boiled vegetables such as beetroot and pickled cucumbers or carrots and peas.

Personally, I long for the taste of my early childhood, when I tasted what my mother must have tasted in her childhood home on the family farm, watching her mother build muscles. Perhaps vinegar was also used as a preservative in those pre-cold days, hence the sharp taste of Maa’s brain?

Enjoy!

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